There has been a renaissance in the wine growing regions across
Spain. Once known for heavy, overly oaked wines, many producers have opted for
balance over weight, delivering purity of the fruit, and true expression of
place. The following wines are excellent representations of the changes afoot
throughout Spain.
The region of Rioja is often considered the premier wine
producing region in all of Spain. With some of the most lauded estates
producing exceptional wines, the 2011
Cortijo Tinto, Rioja, Spain ($8 per glass) is a refreshing introduction
to the style of Rioja at a fraction of the cost of neighboring producers.
Bright ruby in color, with powerful notes of red berries, followed with hints
of Queen Ann cherry on the palate. The wine finishes with the perfect
combination of tannin and acidity making this a great glass of red with our
Bone-In Halibut.
2009 Licinia, Tempranillo / Syrah / Cabernet Sauvignon, Vinos de Madrid,
Spain ($82 per bottle) is an estate-bottled and highly-regarded
viticultural collaboration. It is
produced from estate-grown grapes which have been bio-dynamically farmed, and features
rich and supple notes of blueberry and dark chocolate, which give way to spicy
dark berry balanced with acidity. The finish is long and loaded with hints of
blackberry and mocha. If you’re a fan of Zinfandel or other full-bodied reds,
matching the Licinia with the Marinated Skirt Steak offers a great alternative.
Raul Perez is considered
one of the most influential winemakers in all of northern Spain. Employing
radical techniques for cultivation and production of his wines, he has created
a tremendous following in a relatively short amount of time. I recently had the
opportunity to join Raul in Galicia to discuss the 2011 Sketch, Albariño, Rias Baixas, Spain ($142 per bottle)
which is aged, in bottle, at the bottom of the Atlantic Ocean. This aquatic
setting creates the perfect environment for aging this extremely limited wine (100
cases per year), and has pushed the boundary of exploration in regards to
common laws of winemaking technique in Spain. Complex layers of fresh pear,
lemon zest, and minerals pave the way for tenacious notes of white flowers with
a hint of refreshing sea air. I cannot think of a better wine to match with Joe’s
Famous Stone Crab Claws.
Wine Tip – The term “Vino
Joven” on a Spanish bottle of wine directly translates to “young wine” and is
generally meant to be consumed immediately. “Gran Reserva”, according to
Spanish Wine Law, means the wine has been aged at least 5 years before release,
and could certainly benefit from additional cellar aging.
Follow me on twitter @invitisveritas.
Tell me what’s in your glass, #wiyg.
Kevin Bratt
Concept Wine Director
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